HEIC to JPG Converter — Free, Private, In Your Browser

Yes — different extensions, same format. "JPEG" is the standards body (Joint Photographic Experts Group) and its specification (ISO/IEC 10918-1). ".jpg" and ".jpeg" are both valid file extensions pointing at the identical byte format; ".jpg" became common because older DOS and Windows filesystems limited extensions to three characters. This converter outputs ".jpg" by default — if a specific tool insists on ".jpeg", just rename the file.

A little — JPG is a lossy format by design, which is the whole point (much smaller files). But lossy does not mean visibly worse. At quality 85–90, a JPG is indistinguishable from the HEIC to almost any eye on almost any photograph. If you need pixel-exact preservation (screenshots, illustrations, anything with sharp text or hard edges), a HEIC to PNG conversion is the better fit — PNG is lossless.

Quality 90 — our default — is the right answer about 95% of the time: visually lossless for photographs, meaningfully smaller than quality 100. Push to 95 if the photo is going to print or professional retouch. Drop to 75 if it's a web thumbnail or chat attachment where every kilobyte counts. Below quality 60, JPG's blocking artifacts and color banding start showing up, particularly on skies and skin tones.

Because HEIC is already heavily compressed. Apple uses HEVC (H.265) inside the HEIC container, which is newer and more efficient than JPG's DCT. When you convert a strongly-compressed HEIC to JPG at high quality, you are re-encoding into a less efficient format — so the file can grow. It's still a reasonable trade: JPG is universally supported, HEIC often isn't. Drop the quality slider if file size matters more than the last 1% of fidelity.

If you toggle "Preserve EXIF metadata" in Advanced Settings, yes — date taken, GPS coordinates, camera make and model, shutter speed, ISO, and lens data all carry over into the output JPG. If you want to share a photo publicly but strip your home address, enable "Remove GPS location" as well — everything else stays, only the GPS block is wiped.

Only if you've set it to. Settings → Camera → Formats → Most Compatible switches new photos to JPG. But that toggle only applies to future shots — it does not touch anything already sitting in your Camera Roll. For existing HEIC files you need a converter (like this one); for new ones, flip the iPhone setting. Most people ultimately do both — convert the backlog, change the default going forward.

Windows 11 can open HEIC only after you install Apple's paid HEVC Video Extensions, and even then the Photos app exports one image at a time with no batch option. This converter skips all of that: it runs inside your browser, so there is no codec to install and no per-file exporting. Drop your HEIC files in, pick a JPG quality, and download every photo as a JPG — the process is identical on Windows 11, Windows 10, or any version with a modern browser.

On a Mac you have two built-in routes: open a photo in Preview and choose File → Export → JPEG (fine for one image, tedious for a whole camera roll), or run sips -s format jpeg in Terminal if you are comfortable with the command line. For a full batch without scripting, this browser-based converter is faster — drop in up to 100 HEIC files and download them all as JPGs in one ZIP, with the quality slider under your control.

Android phones and Chromebooks often cannot open HEIC at all, because the format is Apple's default rather than theirs — files copied from an iPhone may simply refuse to preview. Since this converter runs entirely in the browser, it behaves the same on Android, ChromeOS, Windows, or macOS: open the page, drop your HEIC or HEIF files in, and download standard JPGs that any app on the device can read.

Both. HEIC and HEIF share the same container and the same HEVC encoding — HEIC is just Apple's brand name for HEIF images. This tool decodes ".heic" and ".heif" identically and produces the same JPG output in either case.

At quality 95 and above, yes — for photo prints up to poster size, a JPG at quality 95 is indistinguishable from the source. Professional printers often prefer TIFF or a lossless format for archival work, but for standard photo prints (4×6 through 16×20), Instagram portfolios, photo books, and most client deliverables, JPG at quality 90–95 is industry standard.

Yes. The conversion runs entirely inside your browser using JavaScript and WebAssembly. Nothing is uploaded to HeicToPng or any third party. This is the whole reason this tool exists: uploading personal photos (with GPS, timestamps, and faces embedded) to a stranger's server is not a trade most people would make if the alternative is this simple.

Turn on "Remove GPS location from output" in Advanced Settings before you convert. The JPG comes out without the latitude/longitude your iPhone quietly embeds, so posting or emailing it no longer reveals where the shot was taken. Because everything runs inside your browser, the photo is never uploaded to strip it — the GPS data is removed locally and never sent anywhere. Pair it with "Preserve EXIF metadata" if you want to keep the date and camera details but drop only the location.

Two ways, both in Advanced Settings. Lower the Compression level to trade a little fidelity for a smaller file, or set a Max dimension — cap the long side at 4096, 2048, or 1024 px — to actually shrink the image's pixels before it's encoded. Resizing down is the most effective way to get a small JPG for an upload form with a size limit or an email attachment; leave Max dimension on "Original (no resize)" to keep full resolution.

Keep "Auto-rotate by EXIF orientation" enabled in Advanced Settings — it's on by default. iPhones store orientation as an EXIF flag rather than physically rotating the pixels, and some apps ignore that flag, which is why a photo can look sideways elsewhere. With auto-rotate on, this converter bakes the correct orientation into the JPG so it displays the right way up everywhere.